Haal Filhaal Hyderabad

What makes a city?

Is it the buildings? Is it the people? Or is it an intangible pulse that you just can’t put your finger on?

Haal Filhaal Hyderabad.

The truth is, it’s probably a combination of all this and a lot more. A city is a complex, ever-evolving organism that is a confluence of heritage, culture, architecture, and of course, the people. It has myriad colours, moods, sounds and emotions. It is a hotpot of the beating hearts that give life to people.

Hyderabad is no different.

From the towering minarets of the Charminar to the sprawling ruins of the Golconda Fort, from the hustle and bustle of Laad Bazaar to the restrained elegance of the Hussain Sagar Lake, the city is a culmination of the cultures that shaped its past.

And what a past it's been! From the Kakatiyas to the Bahamanis, the Qutb Shahi to the Mughals and finally to the Nizams and the British, the history of Hyderabad is illustrious, to say the least.

A Brief History of Hyderabad

Interestingly enough, the Hyderabad city that we know today is relatively new. The Golconda Fort is much older in comparison.

The history of the Golconda Fort can be traced back to the 12th century. It passed through many hands and dynasties. The Qutb Shahi dynasty expanded the Fort significantly in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was also around that period that Hyderabad was set up as a city to house the excess population.

Sadly, all that remains of the Fort today are ruins. It was laid to waste during the Mughal invasion led by Aurangzeb.

Much of what we see in Hyderabad today, was rebuilt after the Nizams took over.

There are a few notable landmarks around though. The Charminar is perhaps the most famous one. It is so deeply entwined with the image of Hyderabad itself, that it’s hard to imagine a time when the Charminar was not around.

Others include the Chowmahalla Palace, the Qutb Shahi Tombs and the Hussain Sagar Lake. There is, of course, the Golconda Fort itself, which boasts of a scenic hike to the top of a hill, and a fantastic sound and light show. Newer attractions include the Ramoji Film City and the Salarjung Museum, among others.

Enough about the history, though. Let’s find out more about the culture of this illustrious city.

The Changing Tides

To get an authentic perspective on the heritage and culture of Hyderabad, we reached out to renowned journalist Yunus Lasania, a.k.a. That Hyderabadi Boy.

“Earlier, I remember distinctly, people used to sit in the cafes just to chat, to pass the time. There’s no one doing that anymore.”

This is probably the situation in most of the big cities around India. An idyllic approach to life has given way to the fast-paced millennial wave that we are so familiar with.

In the past, shops and restaurants would open late. People would able in, settle down with a steaming cup of Irani chai and the scintillating conversations of the day. Throw in a couple of Osmania or Khari biscuits to top it off, and you could spend hours just wiling time away!

However, change is inevitable, and one can only stay in touch with their past and their heritage if they find someway to make it relevant.

Lasania’s heritage walks are a lovely solution to this issue. He believes in sharing the history of the city.

Want to join us for a visual experience through the city with Yunus Lasania? Check out the first episode of Bhoot Bharat Bhavishya on our YouTube channel here.

You can often find insights into the lives and traditions of people by immersing yourself in the markets of the city, both old and new. From the bazaars to the malls, from the fruit markets to the grocery stores, you can witness an incredible amalgamation of the old and the new through the markets. They are almost like a living, breathing pulse of the city.

The Markets of Hyderabad

It is most often the art and craft, the products and the food that enables us to stay in touch with our heritage, and to keep traditions alive.

Now, considering the fact that there are myriad communities that can lay claim to Hyderabad, it is difficult to fixate on any one set of traditions or markets.

The old city is brimming with such stories.

After the Nizams took over, they accepted the reasonability of building the city with the utmost sincerity. Of course, the infrastructure is one part of it. It is during the time of the Nizams that we saw the sanction of important community buildings like the Osmania Hospital and Osmania University.

The other part is the economy. Unless you have a robust and thriving economy, your city will never flourish. To provide a boost to the trade and commerce in Hyderabad, the Nizams invited traders and industrialists from across the country.

For instance, in the area around Afsal Gunj, you can find Marwari families that have been settled here for centuries. Starting from Seth Ramgopal Malani, who migrated from Nagore in the 19th century, Hyderabad saw an influx of Marwari and Marathi traders. In fact, some of the smaller streets in this area still make the most authentic jalebis and kachoris!

The Pathergatti Market near Charminar is a veritable treasure trove of authentic fashion and accessories that have survived over the years. Here, you will be able to find everything from clothes to jewellery to ittar. Of course, if you visit Pathergatti, the products won’t be the only things on display. The stone facade and the architectural marvel was commissioned by the Nizams of Hyderabad in the early 20th century.

The Mozamjahi Market is another such marvel. This, too, was set up in the 1930s to provide a structured trading ground. Now, you can find hordes of sweets, dry fruits, handicrafts and ittar.

Abids is another market area that was originally named after the Jewish valet of the sixth Nizam. Today, it boasts of some of the oldest textile and jewellery shops. F D Khan, for instance, has been in business since 1929!

Apart from that, there’s also the Laad Bazaar near Charminar which is very famous for bangles. Some of the ittar shops in this area, too, have been preserved over generations.

There’s history around every corner, when you start exploring the markets of Hyderabad. When it comes to food, of course, it’s changes the ballgame entirely.

Biriyanis are the most popular food that people generally associate with Hyderabad. But it goes deeper than that. There is a whole network of Irani cafes, that boast of thick, sweet tea and crunchy biscuits along with that. The Grand Hotel at Abids has been around since 1935, and is currently the oldest Irani cafe in the city.

Badam ki Jali, located at Aziz Bagh in Hyderabad, still makes the traditional almond sweet treat using the original recipe. The shop has been around for decades. The family has been around for over a century, and the secret recipe gets passed down from generation to generation.

According to Aijaz Unnisa from Sultanpur, one of the few sellers of the famous badam ki jali, “The recipe was a secret. My mother-in-law used to make it only during weddings and festivals at home.”

The Road Ahead

The most important element in the quest for relevance is the people themselves. For instance, if you read this article, and share it with your friends, you’ve already taken the first step towards preserving heritage. You can check out the weekly walks arranged by Yunus Lasania to understand the culture embodied in the city.

You can also do your part by taking a pledge to stand by local craftsmen and small businesses. Cheez is a newly formed e-commerce marketplace that is trying to promote Indian handicrafts and smaller brands.

One small step goes a long way towards making an initiative successful. Let’s all do our part and remember and revive the rich culture of India.

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