Brands. Designers. Exclusive.
'Brand'ed lifestyle is the ultimate goal for many these days. After all, what else can you aspire for after hours of watching fashion reels on Instagram?
Content consumption is actually pushing us towards materialistic consumption. We just don’t always realise it. As Social Dilemma so succinctly describes —
“If you’re not paying for the product, then you are the product.”
When we talk about brands it isn't always the heavy Haute Couture of Paris with the bling of Balenciaga or Chanel or even Versace.
No. Instead, we are talking about the mid-priced brands that are spread all over India. It could be Zara or H&M or any of the shops that you find in every other mall in big cities. These brands offer a sense of exclusivity that Balenciaga or Chanel does, at a fraction of the cost. They claim to make ethically crafted products while keeping the environment at the forefront.
But that’s not what actually happens.
These commercially manufactured bulk products provide anything but exclusivity. That’s the one thing that we aspire for, at least in fashion.
After all, is there anything worse than showing up for a party in your new dress only to twin with a random stranger?
Sheesh! Just imagine the awkward glances!
Walking out of malls with those brown planet friendly "No Plan B" paper bags provide the only momentary satisfaction of retail therapy. It is instantaneous gratification. But not of the good kind, the kind that leaves you feeling fulfilled afterwards. No, it’s instantaneous gratification of a gluttonous nature, where you feel sick and slightly nauseated later on.
So let’s address the elephant in the room. Do we really have no plan B?
Flashy Brands Vs Indian Handicrafts
Vir Das talked about two Indias in one of his recent shows about existing dualities.
We come from India where art rules without rules. Connoisseurs from all over the world go crazy for collectibles like paintings, handloom textiles or spices like kesar.
You don’t even have to take my word for it. Simply check out the prices of authentic handcrafted Indian artifacts in the world market.
The Indian textile industry is rich with heritage. It gave birth to Rogan art, Madhubani paintings, Nakshi Katha work and many others. Wearing an authentic piece can turn heads and make us stand out in the crowd.
We have, on the one hand, a desire to stand out and be unique in the ever-changing world of fashion. On the other hand, we have a plethora of unique handcrafted products to choose from.
It should be a no-brainer, right?
Then where is the problem?
Artists all across the country face issues when it comes to exposure of their handicrafts. Digging deeper into the root cause will require more than a few more blogs. This industry is a labyrinth. If we start decoding it, we’ll be here for days!
In short, we can attribute the low exposure primarily to the lack of capital, contact and poor accessibility to credit facilities. There is also the interference of middlemen who are after their own profit.
So then, how can we solve this problem?
The Plight of Indian Handicrafts
At this moment, there are connecting dots in your mind.
And we are all thinking, what does collaboration between brands and artisans sound like?
It should be fruitful, right? Because brands have money and exposure, artists have talent and hard work along with creativity. This should be the best combo if we want India to emerge as the new fashion capital of the world.
But, for the past few years, we all have seen many collaboration projects where designers roam around rural India, visiting workshops, making Instagram reels and showcasing many works as well.
It is the new trend, after all, to show your connection to your roots.
Then why is the condition of artisans still detrimental?
There are numerous reasons.
To start with, the contributing factor is lack of respect for the art and the artist in general, along with a lack of awareness.
When we buy a saree or an ethnic dress we don't question the seller about the origin of the fabric, print or work. Instead, we try to bargain to reduce the price of the product. We compare the higher price to mass-producing brands and condemn the artist for charging more.
If we scroll through Instagram, competition is the only thing that catches our glimpse. Everything is the same. There is no originality. Dupes are slowly replacing the authenticity.
Now, we are not against copies. After all, everyone cannot afford originals.
But the problem arises when the higher price point works against handloom products. We can blame the media or ourselves for the lack of knowledge in weaves, art and painting, but that doesn't change the plight of artisans.
The demand and supply gap of handcrafted products is huge. A handmade product will take hours to produce. In the same time, a machine can probably churn out a hundred pieces.
Of course the price will be high. How else will the artist survive?
Secondly, lack of genuine interest is the reason why bigger or medium brands fail to recognise true craftsmanship in India even to this day. They simply look out for their own interests. It becomes all about sourcing product, and profit for the flagship stores or upcoming runway projects.
No healthy symbiosis can exist if the benefit isn't mutual. The brands rarely think about betterment of the lifestyle or work style of the craftsman.
Lastly, the lack of vision or the incapacity to perceive the bigger picture contributes to plague of art and heritage crafts in India.
Indian brands and designers fail to recognise this foundation of fashion. Handicrafts are the fountainhead. Modern fashion is derived entirely from it. It can all be traced back to some artist sitting in a quaint half-lit room of Haryana or Tamil Nadu or Bengal. The exposure of these brands make them capable of preserving and improving the working condition, and upgrading of the workshops of artisans
Flashy Brands Feat. Indian Handicrafts
Don’t worry. It’s not all gloomy.
Let’s look at the brighter side where OGs like Sabyasachi are trying to preserve and uplift artisanal craft. He involves Indian artisans in his workshops in Bengal. Many of his new product lines are devoted entirely to a specific style of fabric or design.
Apart from that, budding brands like Chowdrain, Meiraa, Kharikhajai and many others are working for sustainable development of not just art but artists as well.
Change is coming about, but very slowly. It won’t be long before other brands start collaborating with Indian artisans.
After all, that is the power of social media. It has its drawbacks. But when it comes to spreading a message, social media is akin to a wildfire.
Well, guys, that brings me to the end of my blog. Baby steps. Let’s take some baby steps to change the future.
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